The Cheese Guy

Grilled Cheese Sandwich, the Ultimate Comfort Food

As the weather grows colder, my favorite comfort foods like Tuna-Noodle Casserole, Tater-Tots and Split Pea Soup sustain my mental well being until the warm weather returns.  The king of comfort food, Grilled Cheese Sandwiches are a fall and winter staple. 

As a kid, growing up in Wisconsin, my Mom made grilled cheese sandwiches to warm us up after my siblings and I played outside all day.  She made it the same way every time and always served it with a bowl of cream of tomato soup.  30 years ago a typical Midwest-style grilled cheese sandwich involved plain white bread smothered with lots of margarine and sliced "orange" cheese.  She always used her well seasoned cast iron skillet to produce wonderfully golden, crispy and greasy sandwiches.  The molten cheese would, if eaten too quickly, drip and burn my fingers.  It was childhood heaven.  There was the dangerous element of molten cheese, no vegetables to eat and greasy fingers were expected.

I still have cream of tomato soup, but I've upgraded the childhood grilled cheese sandwich.  I admit to enjoying plain white bread, but I prefer to use butter (is margarine still made?).  Not surprisingly, I am adventurous when it comes to the cheese.  I have put together a list of cheese that has given me great results.

 

Vella Dry Jack:
A California cheese that melts beautifully.  This Monterey Jack cheese has been aged for about 7 - 10 months.  It has a hint of nut and a complexity that begs to be tried on plain white bread.

Bravo Farms Chipotle Cheddar:
From California, this raw milk cheddar with chipotle will add a little kick to your grilled cheese sandwich.

Fiscalini San Joaquin Gold:
Another California raw milk cheese.  No, I don't work for the California Milk Advisory Board.

Raclette:
Raclette is a natural melting cheese.   If you are well connected, I highly suggest getting the Raclette de  Chevre, a raw milk goat that just may keep you from going back to cow version of raclette.

 

Try mixing up different cheeses. Shred cheese for more uniform melt. Avoid bread with big holes. 

Crottin de Champcol

Sometimes I fall in love with a cheese all over again.  It usually happens when I've not tasted a particular cheese for months.  Just like in the movies, long lost lovers reunited... well maybe not exactly like the movies, but there is definitely music involved. 

Today I fell in love again with the Crottin de Champcol.  This is a simple pasteurized goat cheese from Loire, France.  Its shape is a small cylinder, about 2" in height and about 2" in diameter.  Depending on the age, it can weigh between 2 to 3 ounces.  It is soft when young, firm and ca key as it takes on more age and when well aged they are very hard, suitable for grating.  Each stage of this cheese is enjoyable.  While young, the clean white rind and interior are creamy and slightly nutty.  I especially like it with more age when the rind is slightly beige, the flavor is more pronounced with a distinct goat flavor that stands up for attention.  Well aged, it becomes hard, oftentimes covered in dark mold and a strong flavor not for the light of heart. 

Crottin in French means "road-apple" (or dropping).  A very well aged Crottin, dark with mold, looks very much like what one would find scattered on any French countryside road.   

I suggest you try this yummy cheese at room temperature after your dinner.  Surprise your dining companion with this little guy and serve it with fruit, bread and a bottle of Sancerre.  Take my advice and save the "road-apple" story until after the cheese is gone.

Home Made Cheese Cave

I'd like to share some tips on storing cheese.  Stored properly cheese has a remarkable shelf life.  The optimal environment for most cheese is about 50 - 55 degrees Fahrenheit and a level of humidity that stays constant.  For centuries caves, which are usually cool and have a consistent humidity, have been great environments to age and store cheese.  Caves are still used today, but usually they are man-made structures with a highly controlled environment.

At home, we unfortunately have a refrigerator to deal with; its 10 - 15 degrees cooler then a cave and it has a tendency to suck the moisture out of anything that is unprotected.  To protect the cheese you will need an airtight container.  The size of the container should be larger then what is needed; 40% cheese and 60% empty space (air).  I use the 64 oz. disposable plastic container from Glad.  It has a flat bottom and can hold a couple of cheeses leaving enough air so the cheese can breathe.  You may have more or less cheese at home and therefore may want to adjust the size of the container accordingly.

Now  we have a "home-made cheese cave".  We can adjust the humidity of the air inside the container by using wet paper towel,  crumpled up in a ball and placed in a corner of the container.  The paper towel should not be dripping wet.  The object is to introduce moisture to the air and not to leave the bottom of your container with standing water.  The paper towel should not be touching the cheese; the air should be damp, not the cheese.  Wrap your cheese in wax paper or parchment.  It would be a waist of time to put any cheese in your new cheese cave wrapped in plastic.  Store your cheese cave in the warmest part of your refrigerator, like the vegetable bin.

Check the container once a week.  Inspect your cheese and trim or scrape any mold.  If you find the cheese wet or slimy, reduce the amount of moisture in the paper towel.  Of course if you find your cheese dry, add more moisture to the towel. 

The best part of having a cheese cave:  NO MORE STINKY CHEESE FRIDGE!

More Ideas:

• NEVER...  freeze your cheese!  Please don't do it!  Mercy for the beautiful cheeses.
• If you do freeze your cheese, plan to use it for cooking only and keep it off any cheese plate.
• use two separate cheese caves -one for dry and the other for blues and wetter cheese.
• Use those cool Waxtex wax paper sandwich bags to wrap your cheese in.
• Instead of a knife, try using a cheese plane when removing mold.  I find there is less waste.

Ethical Cheese - Part 2

continued...

Beecher's Handmade Cheese fashioned a cheese after Cougar Gold.  Not big news.  Why did I make a big statement?  After reading their website searching for rennet information I couldn't get past the overall BS without saying something.  I'll be the first to say that I get distracted easily and I couldn't help my self. 

Let me regain my focus and talk about why I believe Beecher's is misleading the consumer.  While they actively promote their cheese as wholesome, pure and all-natural they make cheese with rennet from genetically engineered organisms (GMO).  What's up with that?   

Rennet or chymosin is an enzyme that traditionally comes from the fourth stomach of slaughtered newborn calves.  Other sources have traditionally come from fungi and from the Milk-Thistle plant.  In 1990, the FDA approved the use of GMO for the production of chymosin (bacteria laced with a chymosin producing gene).  The advantages in using chymosin include vegetarian friendly cheese and very cheap, pure source of chymosin. 

Many consumers are very careful about what they eat and are willing to pay top dollar for all-natural foods.  These same consumers don't like genetic engineering in any part of the food they buy.  For example, rBGH (recombinant bovine growth hormone) is not something one would find desirable in an all-natural product.  Because no test can show the presence of rBGH, the consumer is left with trusting the retailer.  I want to trust retailers motives for selling all-natural products.  When it comes to trust, the American consumer is often left wanting.

Beecher's isn't doing anything illegal.  By law, cheese producers do not have to list the source of the rennet.  Should Beecher's promote their cheese as all-natural, wholesome, pure food?  Hell no!   I'm not sure how they can look the customer in the eye, talk about all-natural foods and still sleep at night.  I could never sell anything unless I can be honest about it.  It is dishonest to take advantage of a loop-hole in labeling .  A big loop-hole that leaves the consumer in the dark, unaware of what they are eating

I hate telling my customer these three words, "I don't know".   European cheese is easy.  No genetic alterations taking place there.  American cheese if far more difficult.  There are some cheeses that I have to say, "I don't know".   It's the lamest answer on earth!  I'll give Beecher's credit for being upfront when asked about the rennet used.  They also have some great ideal about wholesome, all-natural foods.  I hope thoses ideals can one day be based on real actions.

Ethical Cheese - Part 1

Beecher's Handmade Cheeses opened November 2003 in the Pike Place Market.  Since opening, they have gotten a lot of attention.  The press they received is enough to make any passionate cheese maker trying to make a living envious.  After being open for a little over a year, they are mentioned in Saveur's American Artisanal Cheese issue next to names like Dean & Deluca and The Cheese Board Collective.  And why not?  They have a beautiful store and I like that they feature regional artisan cheese.  A cool feature of the store is the big-glassed wrapped cheese making room visible from the street for all to see.  Their website is slick and professional with lots of information.  They have the Beecher's Flagship Program benefiting pure and all-natural food education which emphases their support of all-natural, wholesome foods.  They have a well funded marketing department.  What more needs to be said?  Oh... yeah, cheese...  They also make artisianal cheese.

Last November 2004 Beecher's Flagship was released with much fan fare.  According to Beecher's web site, Kurt Dammeier, Beecher's founder wanted Flagship to have a certain taste.  Before the cheese was created his vision of the cheese was so clear he could taste it.  A year later the final product is described as a semi-hard cheese with a uniquely robust, nutty flavor.   

Unique is not a word I'd use to describe this cheese.  The reason Kurt could taste his vision is because it's knock-off of Cougar Gold made by Washington State University    The same school Kurt learned the process of making fine cheese.  There is nothing wrong with copying a certain flavor profile, but give credit to where the inspiration comes from.  Making it sound as though it was a clear vision and a unique concept leads me to question the passion behind making cheese.  If anything it would be a great example to show how artisan, wholesome, all-natural cheese tastes better then cheese that comes in a can.   

Unless, of course you don't want people questioning what you consider all-natural...

to be continued...

Hot Day... Good Food

The thought of cooking anything  on this hot day was as close to hell as I wanted to get.  When it's in the 90's my stomach is very picky.  I find my self almost gagging at almost all food.  Certainly not pleasurable,  but ya gotta eat.  The hunt for just the right food on these hot days usually is a fruitless endeavor and I wind up with a popsicle and  a red tongue.  I had almost given up, that is until I read the menu at the Baguette Box (1203 Pine Street, Seattle WA). 

The menu listed sandwiches that were bold and eclectic.  Grilled Spanish Chorizo, Tuna Salad w/ Boiled Egg, House Cured Salmon Gravlox and Roasted Pork Loin w/ Apricot Aoli.  I must admit that the Gravlox made my stomach a bit queasy.  The large chalk board above the counter listed Salumi's Cured Meats, my stomach started to gurgle with hunger.  I entered with a smile.

When I asked what cured meats where on the Salumi Plate, they guy taking my order asked the cook who shrugged his shoulders and said "I think it's pepperoni".  I hesitated, not a good sign.  The smells coming from the kitchen where agreeing with my tummy so I went with the first thing that I thought looked good on the menu; Roasted Pork Loin with Apricot Aoli ($5.90).

It was ready in less then 10 minutes and it was just what my stomach wanted.  The baguette wasn't the best, probably something from A la Francaice but it fit the sandwich well.  It wasn't too chewy and had a very slight tug to the crust.  The pork was flavorful and moist and there was a healthy portion.  The flavor was a perfect match for the sweetness of the caramelized onions and the apricot aoli.  For under $6.00 this was a great deal and damn good food.  It settled in to my tummy quite nicely and finally, I felt comfortable.  Sweet relief!

I'm definitely going back, I cant wait to try the Spanish Chorizo! 

 

UPDATE:

I just tried to Spanish Chorizo!  OMG!  Yummy!  The Spanish Chorizo was this incredible flavor explosion.  Not too spicy, but definitely enough to warm the roof of your mouth.  I liked the chorizo's prominent vinegar flavor up against the sweetened caramelized onions and roasted sweet bell peppers.  This is a great value for the flavor.  It not only fed my belly but it transported me to that happy food place I like to go.  The cost: $5.90.

Puffy Cheese Please

A couple of days ago, on a hot summer day, I had the pleasure of spending some time with my dentist and I learned that trips to the dentist can be even more unpleasant if you decide to wear shorts.  The dentist office like the rest of Seattle, where only banks and Starbucks have air conditioning, was hot.  The heat coupled with the bare skin of my legs and the plastic of the dentist chair had me wanting to run screaming into the streets.  I was hot, wet and itchy yet I stayed calm, remained patient and polite.  The faster I got out of the dentist office the the more time I had treating my self to some good food.  

Luckily my dentist's office is in the Pike Place Market which is  home to Seattle's best cheese counter.  With 200+ cheeses to choose from, Delaurentis always has something interesting and flavorful.  Before I bought any cheese I hit the sliced meats and ordered some Italian Mortadella and Hot Coppa.  While the meat was being sliced I hit the freezer section for some tiramisu.  Finally, there was the cheese counter where buying cheese is almost a treat by it's self.  I asked for a cheese that was really yummy.  With ease they hooked me up with a small ball of cheese from Bingham Hill Cheese Company called Poudre Puff.

This cheese is a shinning example of some great American artisan cheese being made today.  It's unique for American cheese in that it's not yellow and doesn't slice.  Actually it's a 4 oz. pasteurized cow's milk jewel and I rushed home and immediately unwrapped it.  It didn't really smell of anything and it was firm to the touch.  The bloomy rind was crinkly almost like it was dehydrated.  I cut into it before it came to room temperature and found the interior to be snow white, crumbly and cakey.  After 30 mins I checked it again, at room temperature its texture was completely different.  It was fluffy like it was whipped with air, creamy and the flavor reminded me of mushrooms.  The more I think of it, the Poudre Puff looks like a mushroom, something I'd find growing on a decaying tree trunk.

Try it by it's self and then rock your world by wrapping with Mortadella (my stomach is making noises thinking about it).   

Cheese sans Crackers

I'd like to challenge you to think of something that would go well with cheese.  Use your imagination and think of any three items that would enhance a pleasurable  cheese experience.  However, there are two items you cannot have on your list; wine and crackers.  Wine and cheese are soul-mate and therefore it is assumed they would be at each others side.  Crackers on the other-hand are the bastard children of some sick American love affair.  Don't worry, I'll talk more on this subject of crackers.

There are times when a cheese plate is beautiful with a dollop of quince paste, some crisp slices of apples and a chunk of bread.   The thought of Pecorino Tuscano drizzled with chestnut honey makes my mouth water.  Oka, a hidden jewel from Canada goes incredibly well with a bottle of Anchor Steam beer and a small bowl of tremocos (lupini beans).  Gorgonzola Dolce wrapped in the smothering embrace of perfectly ripe figs and well sliced prosciutto can bring tears of joy to a grown man.  What can I say about macaroni and cheese that hasn't already been said more eloquently by others.  Sometimes, I'll enjoy cheese with other cheese.

When I enjoy a cheese with something I like the flavors to mingle, sometimes contrasting other-times complementing.  I also consider texture.  A smelly piece of runny brie is best on bread (preferably a non-sour, artisan) and a fluffy mound of fresh chevre is right at home next to a small pile of lox.  Consider the flavor and texture before a cracker is piled with a brie or fresh chevre and shoveled into ones mouth.  Cheese and crackers somehow became ingrained into the American psyche to the point where people won't eat cheese unless it's on a cracker.  It's true, I've seen people accepting a sample of cheese and then wait for the cracker or they'll look around not sure what to do with their small sample of cheese.  The cycle must be broken.

Don't get me wrong, I like crackers, I am not a cracker-phobe.  When it comes to cheese, the cracker is often a wonderful way to cleanse your palate if eaten by its self.  It is not an edible utensil to transport cheese from the table to your mouth.

Greetings

My first post!  I feel as though I need to write some grand statement about cheese and why I think it's possibly the world's best food.   If I could do that I'd have written a book by now.  I'm not nearly focused enough for a project like a book, but this forum of short burst of writing is perfect for me.  My attention will shift from topics like raw milk vs. pasteurized milk, to the ugly secret of vegetarian rennet, to what my favorite cheese is today and why.  After some time has passed and many more posts have  accumulated, the sum of my writing will shed more light on the topic of cheese and why it's such a great asset to mankind.